Starting with New York...
Imitation Spring 2011 RTW
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After a 5 year hiatus, Imitation of Christ comes back with designer Tara Subkoff. I love the result, the set was a fantastic compliment to the contemporary line's romantic, whimsical line; the grass catwalk, and the twinkle lights combined with Subkoff's dreamy pieces created a kind of fairy wonderland. Well played.
Jeremy Scott Spring 2011 RTW
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Jeremy Scott is a designer who has been known to work with Lady GaGa, so after the pop star's meat dress stunt at the MTV awards last month, this ensemble should come as no surprise. I think GaGa said her motivation behind the MTV dress was to get the message across that she is not a piece of meat. I wonder if Scott's inspiration behind the dress is the same? At the very least, it's not quite as stomach churning as the original, and PETA won't be able to use argue that the dress will be crawling with maggots.
Over to London Fashion Week...
Vivienne Westwood Spring 2011 RTW
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The cartoonish makeup and stylish retro inspired suits make Westwood's spring 2011 RTW line remind me of a cross between french prostitutes in the time of Marie Antoinette, and a kind of 1940s Dick Tracy-esque sleuth in a graphic novel. It's feminine, edgy and quirky and I love it.
Mark Fast Spring 2011 RTW
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The King of Knits, Mark Fast states that this season, the story he attempted to sell with his line was a utopia destroyed by acid rain. I was on board at first, the fringe in the piece above, for instance, makes the dress look as though its starting to melt, and all of the black pieces Fast showed at the beginning of the collection kind of fit with the dark story. However, he lost me a little bit with all of the florescents toward the end, it became less acid rain destroyed utopia and more cruise ship entertainment. This was a half-pass for me. Kudos to Fast however, on the use of plus-sized models for the third season in a row, it has made the choice of using more diverse women seem like a natural part of his show rather than a cheap ploy for media attention. Let's see if he keeps it up.
And finally, Paris...
Chloé Spring 2011 RTW
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Chloé's Paris show was understated, with the use of simple-yet-beautiful fabrics, and rich neutrals. Particularly noteworthy was the use of flats, not a single pair of heels on the runway. Perhaps the decision was made after the multiple slip-ups the sky high stilettos caused at London's Burberry show.
Balmain Spring 2011 RTW
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Anything but understated, the leather and metallic clad models seen at the Balmain show were the image of rock-and-roll. Not exactly a fresh or innovative collection from a fashion-as-art perspective, the line did offer a pleasing aesthetic, with wearable looks that were, judging by the hole-y tights seen on many of the girls, obviously street fashion inspired.
Zac Posen Spring 2011 RTW
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Lace, lingerie and goth. Another rock-and-roll collection showing in Paris this season. I love the Interview with the Vampire aesthetic that Posen's line presents. Another bonus was the subtle use of diverse models, for example Crystal Renn. Stunningly beautiful, these girls were used quietly instead of being made a spectacle out of, giving some optimism to a new era of high fashion modelling.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2011 RTW
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After the tragic passing of Lee Alexander McQueen earlier this year, and the Gucci Group's announcement that the McQueen brand would live on, I am sure there was much anticipation for the first post-McQueen Alexander McQueen show. The good news is that Sarah Burton's first womenswear show as creative director of the label did not disappoint. It was, as promised, much lighter than what we've seen in the past, it was airy and feminine, and although the line has gone in a very different direction, it has not lost that McQueen spirit we've come to know and love.
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